Antler Headpiece How-To

At Dr. Sketchy in my reindeer costume. Photo courtesy Sabrina Hornung

At Dr. Sketchy in my reindeer costume. Photo courtesy Sabrina Hornung

I had an itch to make an antler headdress for the holidays, but I had no idea where to start. So, I just looked around my craft room and this is what I came up with.

Materials:

  • carpenter’s fabric (can be purchase at a hardware store by the foot)
  • wire
  • felt
  • thread
  • sewing needle
  • decorative fabric to cover
  • mostly-matching horns (found shed antlers on Etsy.com for $26 for 4 pieces)
  • Decorations of your choosing
  • tin snips (about $17) or other heavy-duty cutting implement

You do not require very large quantities of any of the above.

I started out measuring my head around where I wanted this crown to sit. I wanted the finished product to be 22 inches around and 2 inches wide. I ended up cutting a piece of carpenter’s fabric 4 inches x 23 1/2 inches. I wanted some extra play because I knew I would probably be lining it and that adds some bulk. To make it extra sturdy I folded the piece long-ways so it was double-thickness, so the 4 inches became 2 inches. I then pulled it into a circle, overlapping 1/2 inch on each side and I basically whip-stitched that closed with wire. Do not go by my measurements – measure your own head!

Cutting with the tin snips

Cutting with the tin snips

Fold it with the straight edge

Fold it with the straight edge

wire it all together

wire it all together

When working with carpenter’s fabric make sure to WEAR GLOVES. It is all wire so it is very pokey. I used tin snips to cut it (do not attempt with ordinary scissors). Because I am a craft freak I just happened to have 2 different sizes of tin snips in my craft room. I used a metal straight-edge to help me fold the sections evenly.

Next I made a piece to go over the top of my head for extra stability. I only wanted a 1 inch width on that so I made a 2 inch x 10 inch piece out of carpenter’s fabric, folded in half like I did the larger piece. I overlapped the very ends of that top section with the round section I just made, making sure it was evenly placed, and whip-stitched it with more wire.

Because the carpenter’s fabric is very textured I covered the base with felt. I wish that I had folded over the top, so I recommend you do that. I just wasn’t thinking on that. Sew the felt on with a thread and needle. It’s really easy to go through the carpenter’s fabric since it is just a wire mesh.

cover it with felt

cover it with felt

Next I added the horns. I had already drilled tiny holes in the base from a previously less-successful attempt to make a horn headdress. I placed the horns at the points where I had added the top band for extra stability. I wrapped the wire through the holes in the horns, but then just ended up wrapping it around the outside also for even more stability. I thought originally that I could poke the wire through the felt, but that did not work so well so I ended up cutting out sections of felt where the horns were placed.

wire on the horns

wire the horns

For the fabric cover I used stretch velvet. I would recommend this over a non-stretch fabric because it is very forgiving. I cut a single strip long enough to cover all the way around and also wide enough to fold and stitch in the back. Basically 23 inches x 4 inches. I went over the top of the horn section so I needed a little more play in the fabric. But I stretched it a little tight when whip stitching together around the inside of the base. It was a little awkward at the horn sections so I folded the fabric around the bottom and tacked it at the top to conceal the wire. I covered the top support in a similar manner, and blind stitched where the top met the sides. The illustration may do a better job of explaining this.

cover with fabric

cover with fabric

This leaves a diamond shape of exposed wire. I stitched in felt on both sides to cover.

At this point you are pretty much done. I am a big advocate for sewing on your decorations whenever possible so you can reuse them if you change your mind later. I had some square jewelry components, originally meant for a bracelet that I decided to use. I didn’t feel they were big enough though so I cut out 3 diamond shapes out of buckram, covered them with a contrasting burnt gold fabric and sewed the jewelry onto them. I happened to have some left over gold beaded fringe so I added a couple pieces to the side decorations. And there you have it!

I do the decorative stuff in my comfy chair in the living room

I do the decorative stuff in my comfy chair in the living room

Apart from the cost of the horns and the tin snips this is a $10 or less project. If I were to do this again (and I will!) I would make the main band 1.5 inches instead of 2. It is a tiny bit more wide than I would like. Also, I would make sure to wrap the felt all the way around the top and bottom of the main headband. Other than that I’m pretty happy with it. Please feel free to ask questions or comment below.

Makeup Review: Stila Magnificent Metals Foil Finish Eye Shadow

Stila Magnificent Metals Foil Finish Eye Shadow

Stila Magnificent Metals Foil Finish Eye Shadow

As a belly dancer I have a ridiculous amount of makeup. My “goddess” size Caboodle is full to the brim, and I don’t even keep my everyday makeup in there. So I have decided that I shouldn’t let this resource go to waste. I am going to share with you reviews of some of the stuff I buy so that you can decide for yourself if you want to give it a whirl. Just in time for your big New Year’s Eve party!

DISCLAIMER: I do not receive kickbacks or free samples from any cosmetic manufacturer or distributor. I buy these products with my own money. I am not subject to pressures to write positive reviews.

When Stila Magnificent Metals Foil Finish Eye Shadow came out I just had to try it. It looks so gorgeous in the jar, the colors are very attractive. I chose Comex Gold of the 12 colors available as I figured it would be more versatile for the stage. If I am limiting myself I will get either silver or gold to coordinate with costuming. And I am limiting myself, because the product costs $32! The kit comes in a small box that includes the color (which is a bit of a coarse creme shadow), a liquid primer, and a little metal pan to mix the two together in. The idea is you put a drop of the primer into the pan, dip your finger in the pot of color and then mix them together to create a slightly thinner cream. This is really, really messy. Stila did come out with a silicon fiber brush especially designed for this product, but it costs $18. I feel that if you are paying $32 for a jar of shadow that they should include an applicator. Your finger probably is the best applicator anyway. I tried this with a regular brush and it just does not work as well – there is not enough control. Although the application is messy the product does rinse off of the pan and your fingers pretty easily.

Since this is a creme shadow, and you really have no way to set it and maintain the intense color, it will crease slightly. I have tried this both with and without the primer and I have found that while using the primer makes the product go on smoother, it does crease less when you just put it on straight (with a regular eyeshadow primer base). Also, the coarse texture of the shadow makes the creasing easy to touch up as necessary. You won’t see any flaws in the application.

What it looks like for real

What it looks like for real

You can see above what it really looks like. It is freakin’ gorgeous. I actually really love this stuff. This is only one color, but you can get multiple colors and combine them. It is so sparkly and shiny! I would like to try another but I am not sure I want to make the investment. I would only be able to wear this to gigs. I couldn’t pull it off for every day. There are more subtle colors available, but for $32 I would stick with a regular shadow if you want subtle.

So, in conclusion:

Pros:

  • Gorgeous color
  • Easy to correct creasing (for a creme shadow)

Cons:

  • Expensive
  • Messy

I hope this review has been helpful to some of you when making decisions about your makeup purchases. Feel free to comment below.

Fall 2013 Class Session Begins Sept. 7!

Fall 2013 Starts Sept. 7

Fall 2013 Starts Sept. 7

Is the summer almost over already?! I can hardly believe it. So tie on your hip scarf and let’s get our shimmy on! First class starts Sept. 7, 10am-11am at the Spirit Room in the Lotus Studio.  There will be a couple of weeks when I have obligations so I will give students due notice if a particular week is postponed.

One weekend for sure we won’t have class is Oct. 19, when I will be attending the Lovely Dozen’s workshop in Grand Forks, featuring Mahin, of Bellydance Quickies fame. I’m really excited about this opportunity, and I recommend all area dancers consider making the trip up North.

Check out my Class FAQ if you have questions, or email me, or message me on Facebook. Hope to see you all soon!

Fall Classes Start Sept. 8!

Fall 2012 starts Sept. 8!

Wow, the summer sure has flown by! I can hardly believe class starts up in just a few weeks. I’ve got my music all picked out and choreo is ready to go. Are you ready? If you have any questions at all please contact me or check out my FAQ. Also check out the calendar on this blog for upcoming events.

Even though we haven’t had class it sure has been a busy summer! Bad Weather Burlesque has been causing a heat wave downtown with Cruisin’ Broadway and Uni-T events. Come see our new friends Super Happy Fun Time Burlesque on August 24th, and our performance with more new friends, Black Hearts Burlesque at JT Cigarro on August 30. And if you can’t get enough, come see us at the Uni-T Ball on Sept. 1, and for our last Cruisin’ Broadway of the season on Sept. 6. I told you we were busy!

In more bellydance news, we had a fantastic hafla with our friends from The Lovely Dozen just last weekend. And they are busy too! Performing at the Grand Forks Art and Wine Walk on Saturday August 18, hosting workshops and haflas with Gaia Sophia, and teaching some of us a move or two. Check out their web site and Facebook for more info.

I’m especially excited that I’ve had a chance to meet some wonderful dancers through Red River Raks on Facebook. If you are looking for classes or workshops in the region; if you are a musician looking for a dancer, or vice versa; if you have an event and need someone to perform; or if you are just interested in finding out about local performances please join us!

See you all soon!

PS – I have been negligent with my credits. I have been using PS brushes from Obsidian Dawn for most of my posters. If you do graphics check out their stuff!

Cheap, Fast and Easy Recital Wear

My last recital as a student, 2008. Starting left: Me, Gail, Annette, Stephanie, Lori and Laura (my teacher).

I can hardly believe it! Our first recital is only a week away. We have talked a little in class about what to wear, but I know some people leave it down to the wire. I know I do! Today’s entry is about how to put a costume together when you are running out of time and money.

If you don’t sew at all your best bet is to assemble something from clothes you may already have around the house, or hit up thrift stores or discount stores. If you can’t find anything suitable there, you can try clothing stores for juniors, like Forever 21, Vanity or Wet Seal. I have no affiliation with any of these stores, but I find that while I would not usually wear any of these clothes for everyday I do find some glam elements that are suitable for dance wear. You will be looking for something form-fitting, stretchy and comfortable to move around it. You will also want to make sure that you have enough bust support, or that you can alter a top or dress or wear a bra underneath if necessary. That means spaghetti strap may be out, depending on your personal requirements. Bikini tops can also be a good choice because they are already decorated and many have cups built in.

Here are a few examples from my own collection that meet the requirements for comfortable dance wear:

Altered T-shirt

This black choli is just a form-fitting T-shirt cut off above the midriff. That was a discount store buy.

Altered top

This shimmery purple and silver top was a clearance rack find at a department store. Once again, cut off above the midriff.

Floral tank top

You don’t have to show off your belly if you don’t want to. This floral tank was $3 at a local thrift shop.

Gold dress with coin scarf

This sparkly gold dress was one of my best ever thrift store finds. I just put a coin belt on it. Voila! Dance costume! It does have slits up both sides for leg movement.

Short party dress with interesting hemline

Dress altered into halter top and overskirt.

Here is an altered piece made from a party dress. I picked this dress up at a thrift store for about $12. It has a sort of modern sparkly pattern on it. You could just put this over a pair of yoga pants and call it good. Really, I think that would be pretty cute. I altered this one to a top and overskirt. Once again, put on a pair of yoga pants, harem pants or another skirt underneath and you got yourself a costume. It took me about a half hour to alter this. One important thing to remember when altering stretchy fabrics, make sure to use a zigzag, tricot or other stretch-friendly stitch so you don’t pop your stitches when you pull it on. If you chop out the middle of the dress remember you can use that extra fabric to make a headband, choker, arm warmers or arm bands that perfectly match the rest of the costume.

An inexpensive ensemble

Here’s a super cheap assembled costume: chopped T-shirt, silky pajama pants and a discount store scarf. The necklace was on clearance. All together this was probably about $25.

If you find something that seems appropriate but kind of boring, dress it up with jewelry. Start in your own jewelry box. I would be willing to bet that at some point you bought some really gorgeous necklace only to realize it was too ostentatious for every day. Well, today is the day to pull that sucker out and show it off. Do not go for modest or tasteful. Go big! Thrift stores and clearance racks are full of jewelry that people aren’t wearing because they are afraid it is too loud. It is not too loud for this occasion. Look for bracelets, rings and earrings too. I would avoid anklets though. They can get hooked on your skirt or pants and may cause you to trip.

Costuming is all well and good, but don’t neglect your makeup and hair. This is a special occasion – you are showing off your skills to your family and friends. Even just a headband or hair flower will really dress things up. There are lots and lots of makeup and hair tutorials on YouTube. Feel free to experiment.

Before the big day though make sure to do a full dress rehearsal, including hair, makeup and jewelry. You need to make sure that your costume will hold up to the stress of your movement, and that your accessories won’t get caught in your costume. If you are dancing with a veil make sure that it does not get hooked on your hairstyle or adornments. If you are dancing with a lot of arm jewelry make sure to practice with it on so you are accustomed to the weight. Consider what you may need to secure with fashion tape, like arm bands, gauntlets or gloves.

What happens if you have a “wardrobe malfunction” during the recital? Keep dancing. This is something that requires a bit of a cool head and grace, and I’m confident you can handle it. Keep dancing and try to disentangle yourself and then move on. And keep on smiling! If you are OK your audience is OK, and they are rooting for you to do a good job. I’ve had a couple malfunctions myself:

  • My veil got caught on a metal piece on my costume. I just kept spinning around until I got it dislodged. Nobody noticed.
  • I wore a skirt that was very heavy velvet, and when I did a spin the skirt lifted up, nearly exposing my underwear! There were a lot of spins in that song, so I kept my arms down for the rest of them. Lesson in favor of dress rehearsal!
  • I saw a dancer once wearing a hair garden and her flowers starting falling out during her set. As she was dancing she just pulled the loose ones out and let them fall on the stage. She just kept on dancing and smiling – what a pro!

For additional tips check out the resource links on the right side of this page, or just start surfing the web. If you have any additional advice or questions please feel free to include them in the comments. I can’t wait until next week!

How to Make a Covered Coin Bra

Photo Courtesy Roxanne Gritt

Photo Courtesy Roxanne Gritt

These instructions assume that the reader has an advanced beginner to intermediate level sewing ability.

Since I’ve been performing a bit more lately I’ve decided to go through all of my costuming and update my wardrobe. I found I didn’t have as much as I thought in terms of complete ensembles, and much of it was not at the quality level that I would prefer.

Several years ago I made a coin bra, but I didn’t do a very good job of it so I re-vamped it a couple months ago. Originally I just took a regular bra, made the straps into halters and sewed some Afghan coins onto it. Truth be told, everyone I showed it to was pretty impressed. But being older and wiser now I can tell you there is a better way and I’ll show you what I did.

My first mistake in the original concept was that I did not cover the bra. It was a lingerie bra with some padding (firm cups). The Afghan coins were quite heavy and the back strap was not reinforced at all so it put some strain on the back of my neck if I wore it for too long. Before you start:

  • Find out what your actual bra size is. The last time I was properly measured for a bra I was 14. I’ve changed a lot since then. I was lucky enough to find a great gal who does professional bra fittings and she set me straight.
  • Try on a bunch of different types of bras, and then find one style you like. Make note of it for future reference. I use the same brand/model of bra now for all of my designs, which means if I make a pattern I can use the same one every time. That can be a time saver, and a money saver if you stock up when they go on sale. Get a bra that has an underwire and firm cups so it can support you and your embellishments.
  • Decide what kind of straps work best for you. Some people need more support than others. In my coin bra example I use the crossover type of strap that is rather popular on Etsy.com right now. It is very adjustable.
These are really good books.

These are really good books.

I have two different books about how to cover and embellish bras. I have taken advice from both, and I’ve scoured the internet for design help too (see links in the right column). As a result I’ve come up with my own technique. I would recommend either book for some really good advice and design ideas.
Below you can see examples of a few different strap situations. There are pros and cons to each.

Cross over with halter, elastic fitted, and criss-cross with D-rings

Cross over with halter, elastic fitted, and criss-cross with D-rings

  • Professional costume with halter neck strap and overlapping band. The band has two hooks and an industrial snap. This sucker ain’t coming off. Definite pro. Also, with snaps and hooks that are sewn on you can adjust if you change size or sell it. Cons: Halter necks can put weight on your neck. A criss-cross strap could be substituted in that case. You may need help getting into this bra, so plan ahead.
  • Covered elastic band and standard over-the-shoulder straps. Pros are that the elastic will stretch with you, and it’s easier to put on by yourself. Cons are that elastic eventually wears out. Maybe by the time it does you won’t care, but if you put a lot of time and effort into embellishment this may be a let down. I sometimes have problems with the shoulder straps falling down. This can be remedied by installing a T-strap across the back.
  • Criss-cross straps with D-rings. This is very adjustable to multiple sizes, which is probably why it is such a favorite design on Etsy.com. The criss-cross straps really distribute the weight evenly so it’s very comfortable for my neck and shoulders. Cons to this design are that you really need to have it tied tight, and you’ll need help to get dressed. It can also feel like it is shifting as you move, but I’ve never had it shift out of place.

These are not the only possibilities, but that’s all I have to show you at the moment. So here’s my process for making an embellished bra with criss-cross straps and D-rings. Yes, I know 5/8” is a standard seam allowance, but this is my pattern, so there.
You will need:

  • A bra you don’t mind cutting up
  • 1/2 yard of fabric (this is a great project for remnants)
  • 1/2 yard of lining fabric
  • At least 2 yards of 1” grosgrain ribbon, depending on the length of your straps
  • Scraps of buckram, felt, or some structural material
  • Needle, straight pins, and a thimble
  • A tube turner (optional)
  • Thread to match the fabric
  • Beading thread
  • 2 D-rings
  • Whatever embellishments you want

Covering your bra:

  1. Cut off the shoulder straps and cut down the band to about 2 inches. I keep part of the band attached so that the replacement band has something to grip on to.
  2. Make a pattern for the band by drawing around the side of the cup, then taper down to to the width of your D-ring. You’ll have to determine the length based on the circumference of your own torso. I figure about 6 inches between the D-rings when I am wearing the finished bra. Make it 1.5” longer at the end so you can fold the end over the D-ring, and give yourself .5” seam allowance all the way around.

    Making the band pattern

    Trace around where the underwire meets the band

  3. Cut two pieces from your pattern, making sure that they are opposites – one for the right and one for the left. Then cut two pieces (also opposites) of whatever lining material you would like to use. I like cotton or a cotton blend. Something comfortable against your sweaty skin.
  4. With wrong sides together, sew the fabric to the lining on top and bottom edges using a .5” seam allowance, making a sleeve. Turn them right side out and press if possible. The material I used here actually had a rubbery coating so I couldn’t press it.
  5. For extra support, cut two pieces of buckram or other structural fabric to the size of the finished band parts. Slide the buckram into place in the band sleeve that you just made. Leaving about .5” at the cup side (you’ll overlap this later), top stitch the whole band construction into place.

    Constructing the band

    Slide the old band into the new sleeve you just constructed

  6. Slide the left-over band (still attached to the bra) into the sleeve you have made. The 1/2” you left at the cup side should now overlap onto the cup snugly. Pin in place and whip stitch the band/sleeve you constructed to both the front and back of the cup – onto the underwire construction. This stitching will not be seen in the end. TIP: use beading thread. It is made to be run through over and over again, and it is very strong. Regular cotton or poly sewing thread will typically fray and break fairly quickly during this phase.

    Whip stitch the bands to the underwire and cup on both sides

    Whip stitch the bands to the underwire and cup on both sides

  7. With a zipper foot, or by hand, sew along the band from top to bottom as closely as you can to the cup. This will catch the existing band, so you have a triple-stitched band. Very sturdy!

    Stitch with zipper foot or hand stitch along underwire

    Stitch with zipper foot or hand stitch along underwire

  8. Run the end of each band through a D-ring, folding the fabric over, and zig-zag stitch it in place.
  9. Next we cover the cups. Cut a rectangle of fabric that will easily cover the entire cup, and add about an inch on all sides to overlap. In the book Embellished Bras: Basic Techniques by Dawn Devine Brown and Stage Belt and Bra for Bellydancers by Dina Lydia they recommend making a pattern for the cups.  I haven’t done this for the new bra model because I was impatient. The lazy technique still works, you just have to trim off the excess when you’re done.
  10. Fold the fabric over the outside edges of the bra and pin in place. On the band side, fold the fabric under and pin, covering the previous stitching. Let the fabric overlap the center panel as this will be covered later.
  11.  Create a dart and pin in place. At this point you may have to re-position some of your other pins to finesse it just right. If your fabric is rather thick you will have to cut away the extra, but if it is very thin you may be able to get away with tucking the dart in. It is helpful to have some sort of ball or other round object to put under the cup while you are working. MAKE SURE THE DARTS ARE GOING THE SAME WAY ON BOTH CUPS.

    Cover and pin

    This is the hard part

  12.  Whip stitch the fabric covering to the back side of the bra where the fabric folds over. Blind stitch the fabric to the band, and blind stitch the dart in place.
  13.  Cut a triangle of fabric to the size of the center panel, plus .5” seam allowance. Fold the sides under and fold the top and bottom over the panel. Blind stitch the side to the cups and whip stitch the back side. IF YOU NEED MORE SUPPORT FOR THE CENTER PANEL REINFORCE WITH GROSGRAIN RIBBON BEFORE YOU COVER IT.

    Finished cup

    Finished cup. Not too shabby.

  14. Next we make the straps. Cut 2 pieces of matching or coordinating fabric 3 inches wide by 36-45 inches long (depending on how much you need or feel comfortable with). These will need to be long enough to go over your shoulders, criss-cross through the D-rings and tie into a knot. I double-tie to make sure it won’t come loose.
  15. Fold each strip lengthwise, wrong sides together. Pin and stitch with .5” seam allowance. You will end up with 2 long tubes of fabric. Turn them right side out and press.
  16.  Feed a length of 1” grosgrain ribbon through the tubes for extra support.
  17.  Top stitch it all in place, tucking in the raw edges of the tube inside for a finished look on the ends.

    close up of strap

    Finished strap, attached to cup, back view

  18.  Determine the best placement and angle for the straps. With about .5” overlapping, stitch them to the tops of each cup. I did a machine top stitch very close to the edge of the cup. THIS STEP CAN ACTUALLY BE DONE BEFORE YOU COVER THE BRA, DEPENDING ON THE FABRIC AND ORNAMENTATION YOU CHOOSE. Whip stitch the remainder into the inside of the cups for extra strength.

You have now covered the bra. You can decorate it any way you want! If you have very heavy ornaments you may choose to add strips of grosgrain ribbon to reinforce the cups. In the case of the coin bra I did this:

Front and back

Front and back of finished bra before lining

  1. I drew lines with tailor’s chalk as guides where the decoration should go.
  2. I wanted the spacing between the coins to look finished and consistent, so I re-purposed beads from a broken necklace. Starting from the backside of the cup I ran thread through, caught a coin, back through the cup, four beads, through the cup, coin, an so on.
  3. I finished the knots with beading glue to make sure they wouldn’t come undone.
  4. I added a lining so my skin wouldn’t be irritated by the stitching and knots. Also the lining can be removed and washed if necessary.
  5. The center piece is a brooch that my mother gave to me. She received it from a friend who had actually lived in Afghanistan many years ago. Authentic!

Hopefully soon I’ll get around to posting a belt tutorial. I hope this was helpful. Please post any questions or suggestions in the comments.

UPDATE: See also “How to make a belly dance belt (the easy way).”

How to find new music

We are about half-way through winter session now and I have revealed our choreography music: Simarik by Tarkan (the radio edit version 3:11 – available for single download). I’ve had one or two people ask me where I find my music. The answer is: everywhere. But where to start?

  • Ask your teacher for her/his favorites. That’s how I got to know Eddie “The Sheik” Kochak and George Abdo.
  • Look for compilations like Desert Roses, Bellydance Superstars, Rough Guide or Putumayo Presents. That is a good introduction to musicians you might want to get to know better.
  • Go exploring online. Many dancers post on YouTube and their personal blogs. What are they dancing to? If you are shopping online take a look at the suggestions made. “People who liked this also liked that.” Maybe you will to!
  • Make a playlist on Pandora Radio of an artist you like. See what the Music Genome Project plays for you.
  • Keep your ears open at shops, on the radio, etc. I first heard Shantel and Rodrigo y Gabriela on Fresh Air. I discovered The Buena Vista Social Club at a video store. I just asked the clerk what he was listening to.
  • Think outside the box. You can dance to anything you want. It doesn’t all have to be Middle Eastern pop. Try out Lady Gaga or Rammstein sometime.

I recently went exploring online for some Creative Commons music for an upcoming event and discovered FreeMusicArchive.org. There are some pretty talented people who are sharing their music for free. Special thanks to Damscray for giving me permission to use their music for the Erotic Art Show at the Red Raven. Which song? You’ll have to show up to find out.

Here are some of my faves, in no particular order:

  • Shantel
  • Mile Kitic
  • Eddie “The Sheik” Kochak
  • Issam Houshan
  • Oojami
  • Rodrigo y Gabriela
  • Hakim
  • Tarkan
  • Niyaz

What’s your favorite dance music? Feel free to share in the comments.

Hello Fellow Goddesses!

Dance Poster

Poster for the new class

Hello dancers! My name is Erica and I’m going to be teaching beginning belly dance at the Spirit Room. It will be a 10-class session with classes on Saturdays at 10am beginning September 25.

I started this blog mainly because I found that there is very little communication amongst members of the belly dance community in the Fargo-Moorhead area and I really want to change that. I have been aware of 2 other groups but they have not updated their web sites in at least a year so I’m not even sure if they are still operating. If you are aware of any other classes or events, belly dance or any kind of dance, please let me know and I will make an announcement.

On to business. For the first few classes you will need:

  • comfortable pants (yoga, sweats, harem, etc)
  • form-fitting t-shirt, tank top or choli – something that allows you to see how your hips and rib cage are moving
  • hip scarf or some sort of sash to put around your hips
  • zills/finger cymbals
  • footwear is a personal choice: barefoot, lyrical sandals, Foot Undeez, ballet slippers, socks

We’ll talk about veils during class. This is for beginners, but if you are an intermediate/advanced student I can give you alternate things to do to challenge you a little.

I look forward to this opportunity and to seeing faces both familiar and new in September!

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